Arriving at the North Coast Trail trailhead is a bit of a surreal experience. It looks just like any park, the large British Columbia Parks Sign with the park name, a small signage board with a tide table and the park map and the park fee tube, a red hollow post in the ground with envelopes for payment of fees. The main difference of course, it is in the middle of nowhere, right on the edge of the forest on a rocky outcropping. This is where the water taxi dropped us
Day four promised to be another long day, we intended to hit the Cape Scott Lighthouse and return to Nels Bight. As we hiked the trails to Nels Bight I took many opportunities to point out the various cultural relics left by the various settlement attempts of the Cape Scott region: grave sites, town site, tractor in the trees, etc. Several of the group would comment later in the day that they were blown away by several sections of the days trip, namely the field of grass at Hanson Lagoon and the Sand Neck between Guise Bay and Experiement Bight. The route for the day was great, rarely any mud and for the most part the trail is even, with only a one or two real hills.
For me the lighthouse is not the final destination, I head down the backside of the property toward the ocean. (Note taking this route will also take you past one of the oldest
Geocaches on Vancouver TIsland) As with many sections of the North Coast Trail and the Cape Scott Trail the formations of rock at the beach are very unique to this region, the northern most tip of Vancouver Island. No other rock formations in the park are of the same style and colour! The tide was out so it was easy to wander between the different sections of beach, climb out to the rocky islets and even possible to climb up to the
sea stacks.
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sometimes you just have to take a nap |
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sometimes you have to kick off your shoes |
After 30 minutes of enjoying the beach in our own individual ways, we hiked back up to the lighthouse and down to the sand neck between the Guise Bay Beach and Experiment Bight. Upon consulting the tide charts I suggested that we hike the beach-route back to Nels Bight. I enjoy doing this section of the hike because it turns the trip out to the lighthouse into more of a loop, rather than just an out and back. The beach route to the final headland crossing is amazing! There are sections that take you practically under nature, as you duck bellow logs that are serving as nurse logs.
Once back at the camp, I changed into my camp clothes and recorded my thoughts for the day in my journal before taking a walk down the beach to check out the New Ranger Cabin! The old ranger cabin was on the west end of the beach, very close to the water source and the headland crossing heading out to the light house. The cabin was slowly rotting because it was seldom exposed to sunlight. The new cabin is east of the trail head that brings you to Nels bight. It is easy to see it as you hit the beach because there is a Canada flag flying in front. The Park Facility Operators were kind enough to tour me through the building. It is a beautiful cedar plank construction with two rooms outfitted with bunk beds and a giant loft. The water is gathered from a rain collection system and stored in a giant cistern by the house. Apparently the building will remain open in the off season, I look forward to a night snuggled up in the new cabin!
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New Rangers Cabin, bathing in sunlight |
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How long does it take a soccer ball to grow this much life? |
Day 5 Nels Bight to San Joseph Bay (19km)
I reluctantly woke early in the morning, we faced another long haul today, Nels Bight to San Joseph Bay. I have done this hike so many times with friends and student groups that I knew we were in for a 6 hour day at least. Fortunately this leg was made easy by the condition of the trail, very dry compared to the previous 4 days. Further our packs were light as we had eaten most of our food. The route to San Joseph Bay is very easy, there is very little elevation change and though there can be sections of mud, there is quite a lot of boardwalk to help you avoid mud. However, given the dry conditions, I left my gators in my backpack.
We took lunch at Fisherman River, about the halfway point for the day. We refilled water and enjoyed the weather as the sun came out to keep the bugs at bay. After taking a leisurely lunch, we were back on the trail and didn't stop again until we reached Eric Lake. Eric Lake, as beautiful as the campsite is was infested as ever by insects, no-see-ums, mosquito and even horse flies. Several of the Courteous Gentleman took a moment at the lake to strip down and bath/swim in the lake; a common practice by hikers. The temperature was warm and clean skin and hair is always a welcome treat.
The final 3 km from Eric Lake to the trailhead are the worst sections of the Cape Scott Trail but the trail condition was nothing compared to what was hiked on the North Coast Trail. The entire hike of the Cape Scott Trail is a veritable highway compared to that of the North Coast Trail.
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Bridge at Fisherman River |
We took another short break at the junction between the trailhead, San Joseph Bay and the remainder of the Cape Scott Trail. We hiked this final section of trail to the bay very quickly as the trail is packed gravel with no steps at all, it is wheelchair accessible (albeit an electric wheel chair or a chair pushed by someone with the muscle to get the chair up the rolling sections). I have definitely taken a wheel barrow and wagons from the trailhead to the beach.
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One of two wildlife sightings on the trip. |
Once at the beach we met a Parks Facility Operator. I asked her about the final section of the trail that I intended to do, San Joseph Bay over Mt. St. Patrick and down to Lowrie Bay. She indicated that the trail to the summit of Mt. St. Patrick was very rough and that beyond that her boss told her there wasn't a trail anymore, it would require bushwhacking. This was disturbing news. I had intended to do this section as my last days. My plan was to use the sixth day to go up and over and camp at the cabin reported to be there, day seven to hike back to San Joseph Bay and day 8 to return to the trailhead for pickup by the shuttle. The information she provided changed things.
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San Joseph Bay is my favourite beach on Vancouver Island. The west end hosts a variety of natural features |
I collected water and thought about my options. Ultimately I decided that tonight would be my final night and that I would hike out with the group the following day. Although I started the North Coast Trail alone, my assessment of the risk was,
there are people coming on the trail behind me. In the way I was not really alone on the trail. Further, once meeting the Courteous Gentlemen I wasn't alone at all. Choosing to go up and over would mean walking/bushwhacking into an area where absolutely no one was coming behind me. Not worth the risk. I'll organize a group of friends and come up for three days to do the hike, a special trip. I really want to know what's back there!
I announced my intentions to the group and one of them joked that, "I couldn't stand to hike without them". That may be truth in that statement too. Heading out together would mean sharing a drink at the Scarlet Ibis and sharing more stories.
This being the final night I joined their evening food ritual. They normally cooked 4 freeze dried dinners between the five of them. I contributed two dinners and we ate through the remainder of everyone's snacks and chocolate. What a great night!
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the only photograph of me! |
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boccie on the beach |
When it came time to retire for the evening I had my first and only wildlife experience of the trip but that's a story for another post.
Day 6, San Joseph Bay to the Trailhead 2.5 km.
On our final day we could not have asked for better weather! The whole trip the mornings were overcast, which is great for hiking but today we had pure sunshine and a light breeze. It provided opportunity to air out sleeping bags, dry off condensation from tents, have a leisurely morning breakfast with time on the beach to explore and take a final long walk of the beach. We departed the camp at noon and made it to the parking lot in about 45 minutes.
The driver for the North Coast Trail Shuttle Bus met us, took our photograph and gave us a guest sign in book to record our experiences, in brief. We also voted and it was decided that we would stop at the Scarlet Ibis for fish and chips and the all important after hike beer. It was all so perfect! Once back in Port Hardy I offered a ride to one of the Courteous Gentlemen. It is preferable for me to drive with passenger, someone to talk to so I don't fall asleep on the long drive home.
Resolution & Recommendations
I loved my experience hiking this trail. I had it up on a pedestal as a serious hike. It didn't disappoint. For those interested in hiking it, pack light, pack water treatment suitable for the group size, bring gators, hike through the mud rather than dodging back and forth and take your time.